It seems that I just can’t let go of my solo adventure around Cuenca! There’s still a few more things I want to share before we move on. As a solo female traveller, I have to say I felt very safe and able to explore in this gorgeous Andean city. Let me give you a few fun facts to get us started…
Cuenca is (rightfully!) a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a mountain city nestled amongst the peaks of the Andes in southern Ecuador. It is the capital of the Azuay Province and from the UK it takes about 24 hours of continuous travel to get here.
Quite a feat, though well worth a little discomfort en route. It’s central old town is populated by a lot of American expats, so the locals can speak English (they just choose not to!) This was no for me problem, since I had to initiate myself into 24/7 Spanish-ness!
The US dollar is the currency of Ecuador, a monetary system that I’m not used to. Trying to translate prices to GBP in my head proved tricky to start with, but as with anything, the more you practice the easier it gets.
My short time in the jungle required little to no dollar knowledge whatsoever, sequestered away in the jungle as I was. My time fending for myself in Cuenca, and subsequently in Guayaquil meant that I could really appreciate just how expensive the Galapagos actually is.
During my time in Cuenca, I stayed loyally to the cobbled downtown area, where it’s prettiest and where the vast majority of tourists and travellers stay.
The Tomebamba river cuts through the city, and I found myself drawn to the raging waters time and again, treading the riverside path, past exotic flowers. It’s crazy to think that the locals would call these flora species common. Marvelling at the street art, I wove my way down to the broken bridge of Puente Roto and up to the artists quarter, with its numerous galleries.
While on the surface, Cuenca looks to have changed little over the past hundreds of years, the trams and mod-cons soon put paid to that notion. Compared with the sleek and slick façade of the UK towns and cities, driven by an insatiable need for quick and easy commerce, South America in general is slightly less sleek. It’s predictable once you get the hang of it, and the drive of commerce is still there, but it seems nittier, grittier and a lot less polished.
It makes the UK, and other spotless European towns seem caricaturish. Places seem a little… not rundown per se, since the people take pride in their places, but just… grittier. There’s more of a make-do attitude. People can live without here – the backwater towns and bus routes show just how poor a lot of the country really is.
Since I don’t think I’ve mentioned it yet, I will let you know that my route down the western side of South America meant I was 5 hours behind UK Greenwich meantime. From mid-afternoon I was cut off from those still based in my native England, lending a true sense of wildness and adventure. It was during these times, along with my Wi-Fi free wanderings and bus trips onwards, that made me really feel alone.
Not alone as in lonely, quite the opposite. I loved the freedom of it, the sense of independence I felt. If solo travelling has taught me anything, it’s shown me just how capable I am.
Anicha Hostel – My Home Away From Home
I mentioned a few posts back that I stayed in Anicha Hostel, which is situated on a busy street close to the main square and the Catholic Catedral de la Inmaculada. You are never far from some fantastic colonial architecture in the historic downtown area. Even leaning out the window of my dorm room was a view of a glistening white church. A reminder, perhaps, of some brutal conquistador past. It looks familiar to a pair of western eyes, but look closer and you’ll see that it’s not.
Anicha Hostel was stunning in its artistry, its interior reflecting the eclectic mix of street art to be found outside. I loved the bohemian vibe and enjoyed my breakfasts by observing the other travellers there – the quiet pairs, the larger groups and more open travellers. I tried to present myself as an old hand at travelling, which I guess I am, though as a solo traveller I was barely initiated at that point!
Breakfast was provided, a simple affair of eggs or porridge, bread and fruit, with coffee and tea also available. The hostel has a strict vegetarian policy. which was no problem for me, as I didn’t make use of the cooking facilities there and I can live without meat.
I always made sure my hostels, or the rare hotel I treated myself to, provided free Wi-Fi. Perhaps that’s not as important to you, but being able to watch Netflix was a necessary luxury at times! That and being able to use google and download maps before I ventured out into the unknown.
Cuenca Cuisine – A Foodie’s Paradise
Cuenca has an undeniable food culture. During my stay, I barely touched traditional South American cuisine, so prevalent where the options. During my first stay I opted for a favourite of mine – Pad Thai and a pineapple juice drink (before discovering that I’m allergic to the fresh pineapple of the continent).
I feasted on lasagne, more Thai food, empanadas (the South American or Spanish equivalent of the UK sandwich. By my estimations, the empanada is far superior). Burgers were eaten, as was pizza. You can see below a small selection of the variety of treats on offer to me.
I can’t wait to return to Cuenca. Everything from the place, the people, the food and the incredible history enveloped me in the thrills and simple joy of discovering an alien place for the first time. I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to recapture the uncertainty of my time as a first-time solo traveller there, nor will I be able to revisit the surprise of how easy it is to adventure alone. You are never truly alone and solo travelling is far more prevalent than you might think.
Take the plunge and do it. You will be forever grateful to yourself that you did.
Join me next time to hear about my first ever walking tour of the city, and discover some of it’s history for yourself!
From me to you,
Jenni
🦋
Collecting Continents 