Day 1 of Operation Galapagos! When a day you’ve been waiting for, or even never imagined would happen, it’s pretty special. I hadn’t dared to put the Galapagos Islands on my travel list, since it felt so far (physically and metaphorically) and unobtainable. Making the decision to head to the islands of evolution was the easiest decision. After all, I was in Ecuador already and it would be rude not to.
When the day finally came to head to my number 1 destination, waking up at 5.30am was still a struggle (little did I know that a few months later covid would mean I would be starting work at 4am!) Leaving plenty of time to get through the airport, including a little extra for any issues we might encounter, turned out to be unnecessary. I’d much rather wait around than be panicking about missing a flight though! If only I could deal with “normal” life this way, but alas, my bed is a fabulous place to be.
I’ve included all the pre-flight prep in my previous article here if you’re interested. Since the flight itself takes about 1 hour 35 minutes, it’s enough for a short nap while you’re cruising to the barren Isla Baltra. There’s really nothing to do on Baltra except get excited that you’ve touched down in the GALAPAGOS!
Incidentally, arriving at these protected islands was the first time I got wind of something called “covid”. I briefly scanned the banner explaining what it was whilst waiting for my temperature check, but the excitement of being on the islands meant that I didn’t pay much attention to this minor issue. This was not only the first, but also the last time I paid any attention to this minor blip in my journey. It wasn’t until I got back to the UK that the widespread and serious nature of it all hit.
To quickly summarise, after our bags were checked, you have to buy a bus ticket and catch the bus to a small port, where you’re ferried by boat across a small stretch of ocean to the main island: Isla Santa Cruz. A 45 minute – 1 hour bus or taxi ride transports you to the main town of Puerto Ayora, a small town that hosts the majority of land-based tourists during their stay.
Our first hostel was really nothing to shout about. Cockroaches, a dodgy shower that left me in fear of being electrocuted and a shared bathroom that didn’t lock… yeah, leave your options open so you don’t have to put up with things like that. I can rough it with the best of them, after a lifetime of camping adventures (plus I’d just come from the jungle, remember), but I do have my standards! For a dream destination, I would rather spend slightly more on accommodation, since this really does impact your trip.
Good accommodation can be found, whatever your budget, even for a budget traveller such as myself. I would say don’t skimp on your accommodation, since at the very least you want to know that you, and your bags are safe. You most likely won’t be spending a lot of time in your room (if you are, then you really need to look at your life and destination choices), but having a comfy, lockable room is worth the splurge.
Back to day 1 adventures then: lunch on the GALAPAGOS was a surreal, pinch-myself moment. Because come ON, it’s the bleeding GALAPAGOS! Honestly, the novelty of having been there will never wear off, even if it does for the people who’ve heard the stories a thousand times since. Live your life, don’t let anyone stop you and tell those tales again girl!
Trawling the Tours
As intrepid budget travellers, we were soon on the hunt for a decent tour that covered what we wanted, at a decent price. Easier said than done, since my haggling skills are non-existent, and coupled with my rapidly rising excitement levels, this was a concern for my friend.
I had done extensive amounts of research on how not to go completely broke while visiting the Galapagos, and had quickly settled on a land-based tour. Boat tours are expensive if you’re pre-booking. If you wait until you get there for last-minute boat tours, then there’s the risk they won’t fit your schedule or cover what you want. To really keep costs down, and the looming threat of sea sickness, I opted for island hopping, which loads of sites seem to not recommend. Why? Most likely because they’re trying to sell you the most expensive, all-the-bells-and-whistles tour. Bear that in mind, because a lot of sites you’ll trawl for research will be trying to sell you something.
As for me, a first time Galapagosian visitor, I did not feel our tour was lacking at all. It was a jam-packed action-fest that covered enough islands, wildlife and experiences to satiate my adventurous soul.
After wandering around the various, and numerous, tour agencies, we settled (well, I settled) on a trip that covered all the main islands, taking in a vast amount of wildlife and scenery. The cost? $710. Ouch.
So here’s the thing. I didn’t have enough cash for that. So I ended up doing the thing that EVERY SINGLE SITE I read beforehand told me not to do. Comb the island’s cash points for funds. Double ouch. Mucho oucho. It’s really not the thing you want to be doing on your holiday. You’re strictly limited as to how much you can get out at each machine, so it involved trekking between banks multiple times, feeling like a right gringo stupido, to get the right amount out. 110/10 do not recommend.
Eventually, I had mustered up enough funds, plus extra spending money to be able to pay the fee, trudging back after a hot and sweaty mission. The thing is, the Galapagos was the one destination I actually researched on my trip, but nowhere seemed to provide even a rough guesstimate of expenses and costs, not even a ballpark figure. I get that preferences and budgets change, but as a super-budget traveller, even an idea would have been useful.
I would say take out bare minimum $1,200, for things like food and souvenirs too. Accomodation you can pay beforehand on the apps, which is a handy thing for sure. I would even say, to be on the safe side, take $1,500 in cash.
Foraging and Fauna
Dinner cheered me right up, after my sweaty cash-point ordeal. I ordered a gorgeous medium-cooked tuna (seafood is a must when island living), mushrooms, potatoes, asparagus and ensalada (salad). The sweet Ecuadorean wine went down a treat too.
The perks of off-season 
Yes this is an awful photo, but you get the gist. The phone I had here could not cope with low light situs!
We reflected on the animals we saw on our first day, all of which were a novelty and endlessly exciting. Bright red crabs leapt confidently between surf in the shallows and climbed the walls of the marina. The amount and variety of fish was enticing and promised colourful snorkel trips to come. Marine iguanas are the ultimate in Galapagos natives, completely at home in both land and sea, completely unfazed by the gaping tourists, who no doubt have long ceased to be a novelty for them.
Yellow warblers, bright yellow and numerous in number greeted our arrival, as did the Darwin finches. These overlooked superstars are the reason the Galapagos is on the map for many people – they are the original instigators of Darwin’s theory of evolution. I was astonished to realise that every single person appeared to overlook these important birds. Yes, they look like ordinary finches, the type to be found the world over, but they are so important! Like a superstar whose looks and talent fade over time, the crowds are now drawn to the novelties of the showier creatures: the perpetually calm and collected nature of the sea turtles, the creaky tortoises rumbling along, the flashy fish, and show-off sea lions. Even the uncaring rockstars, the marine iguanas, draw excited gapes from new arrivals. The poor finches; spare a thought for the original superstars of the islands.
Solo Travelling Tips – Structuring Your Days
What I will mention at this point is that when you’re travelling for an extended length of time, particularly as a solo traveller, I find it’s a lot easier to breakdown each day into a series of tasks or “missions” to complete. It is very easy to become overwhelmed, and my natural response was to structure my day in an simple and easy way. I find that it’s a lot easier to look after myself, since there are some non-negotiable things that you need to do each day.
Number 1 is feeling safe when you sleep, so find a decent place to stay. Look at recent reviews to help you decide. You quickly pick up what you want from your base, and it differs between every traveller. If you’re solo, then don’t always opt for private rooms, as it’s surprisingly easy to feel lonely, even when you’re surrounded by people. If you’re in a hostel you have the luxury of choosing space and solitude or practicing your rusty language skills on the other travellers. Plus, the tips and tricks you’ll pick up, along with the stories you hear, are priceless.
Number 2 is to structure your day around your meals, since this provides the backbone of your day. Hunger and in particular, hanger, makes everything more difficult to cope with. I can deal with a lack of sleep, but a lack of food is just asking for trouble. Combine the 2 and the rest of you should be running for the hills rather than deal with me in that state!
When you’re in exploration mode, usually hunger comes on pretty quickly, so bearing in mind roughly when these times are is helpful. As a solo traveller, you won’t have to worry about compromising, and it’s so much easier to get the food you want, instead of trying to pick a compromise when 2+ people are hungry.
Well, that’s all for now. Next I’ll be focusing on the other islands I visited and what I got up to.
Until next time!
From me to you,
Jenni
🦋
Collecting Continents 