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On the Road Again

I’m going on an adventure!

Be yourself; Everyone else is already taken.
— Oscar Wilde.

And so it begins. The story starts. An epic adventure to lands unknown.

This story does not begin with me, but with my friend Charlotte. You see, she moved to Ecuador about 2 years ago. She’s the reason I’m here now, writing (typing?) to you from under the stars in the Southern Hemisphere. Lounging in a hammock in the beautiful community centre at Terra Frutis. Yes I’m getting bitten, but the price of paradise has never been easy.

Cast your memory back to the distant lands of March 2019, misty for me as I’m sure it is for you. That was when I set my sights, and bought a one way ticket to Ecuador. Game on.

The next 9 or so months were spent in a constant mode of working hard and saving up. Soon my trip was beginning to look a little different… and a lot longer.

As countries were added to my list, the harder I worked. After all, since the reason I was heading out there was to film the Amazon Fruit Festival at Terra Frutis in Ecuador, I was having to invest in some serious kit.

Lenses were bought, camera packs were invested in, rigs, sound kit, the latest GoPro, iPad for editing – the lot. To be a wandering filmmaker is an expensive undertaking, particularly when you’re also saving for the travelling itself!
I’m thinking of writing a more in-depth blog about the kit I used, for those of you who are interested, and to help other roaming adventurers to make smart choices.

Well my hard work paid off, because I’m here! The festival is just about to start, and I’m finally feeling ready for it after all the pre-production and testing I’ve done. I’m just waiting on one part to be delivered so I can hook the receiver for the microphone to the sound system. Getting to town, Gualaquiza, is a trek and I’m glad someone can do that for me!

Getting to Gualaquiza from the UK was a mission in itself as well. Over 24 hours travelling (I haven’t been able to bring myself to count them properly!) By plane, bus, taxi and my own exhaustive efforts carrying my vast amounts of kit, and a stopover at gorgeous Cuenca I made it!

That’s it for now. Come back and visit soon to learn more about my journey!

From me to you, adios amigos! 👣

Galapagos on a Budget: Day 2 – Isla Santa Cruz & Puerto Ayora

Welcome back to the day-by-day breakdown of my budget trip to the Galapagos Islands. As a solo traveller on a personal odyssey around South America, I had to make the time to visit the Galapagos.

While it is expensive when compared to the other countries I visited (mainland Ecuador, Peru & Bolivia), since I was already in Ecuador, I could not miss the opportunity to make the short flight over to Santa Cruz and begin my Galapagos adventure. Join my at the start of my island hopping here, or read on to discover what I got up to on day 2.

Galapagos Day 2

Day two of my budget trip to the Galapagos Islands kicked off on an expensive note. My first full day on the islands brought into sharp focus the cost of staying here. A Galapagos budget is hard to come up with, but my WORD do they mean it when they say it’s expensive. Can it still be done on a budget? Of course… but prepare to splurge more than you would on the mainland.

First off, a trip to the supermarket to pick up some bare necessities: food. I mentioned in my previous post that the islands are expensive, but a simple shopping trip here for basic dinner supplies cost about the same as a dinner out! $20 for some lentils, tomatoes and other basics for cooking an exceedingly simple vegan meal.

Galapagos by Bike – Charles Darwin Research Station

We rented bikes today, forking out yet another small fortune and headed over to the Charles Darwin Research Station to meet our first Galapagos tortoises, including some tiny baby ones. We managed to meet Lonesome George, who is now rather sadly (if not morbidly) stuffed and on display behind plate glass windows. An exhibit now, instead of a living, breathing, munching live tortoise. Poor fella.

Lonesome George – now sadly a static exhibit rather than a living breathing tortoise

I remember seeing Lonesome George on a David Attenborough programme, so seeing the stuffed version of this lonely giant was a surreal experience. As with guided tourist experiences, this was a slightly vapid affair, a few clicks of the camera and we moved on.

It was at the Herbario de la Estacion Cientifica Charles Darwin that I purchased my first souvenir. It’s a cap with a tortoise on it which says “Galapagos” – a great way to ensue people ask and become acquainted with the fact I’ve been to the Galapagos (bragging rights? I think SO!) While it cost a cool $17, 100% of the money is actually a donation towards the park, so I could help them out AND have a bragging-rights hat too! Sweet!

The only decent photo I have of the hat – you can see how hot it was!

I also bought a plastic snorkel so I could head out by myself and not have to rely on the tour operators to provide me with one. Was it expensive? Come on, you know the drill by now: yes it was. Was I hell bent on dragging it round the rest of the South American continent with me afterwards? Also yes.

Conversationally, I ended up using the tour operators’ superior glass masks, since they’re better quality, but thankfully used my own snorkel. I am certain that they were disinfected, but the state of them, and the knowledge that they’d been used by countless people before me, meant I put my faith in my new snorkel.

Tortuga Bay

After spending some happy time in the shops (and less happy time handing over my cash) a trip to Tortuga Bay was on the cards (Pirates of the Caribbean anyone?) However, the thing about the beaches on the Galapagos Islands is that they close at 5pm. That was a major disappointment as we didn’t have time on the rest of our trip to visit, so I’m hoping to get back there one day.

It makes sense to close the beaches, to protect intrepid tourists after one too many piña coladas. And of course, it protects the wildlife from drunk tourists. This unsuccessful trip, however, did lead to a burning desire to revisit the Pirates of the Caribbean movies. During the remainder of my travels, I did just that, watching the films on my iPad during my downtime in the hostels (aka, just before bed, because what even is downtime?)

After returning the bikes (worth the expense? Debatable, but still quite fun), I spent some time amongst the fish of a nearby beach, getting very excited by the sheer variety of colours on display and having a whale of a time.

Join me next time for day 3 of my Galapagos Adventure! (And keep your eyes peeled for my definitive solo traveller’s budget guide to the Galapagos.)

From me to you,

Jenni

🦋

Galapagos Day 1 – Arrival on the Islands

Day 1 of Operation Galapagos! When a day you’ve been waiting for, or even never imagined would happen, it’s pretty special. I hadn’t dared to put the Galapagos Islands on my travel list, since it felt so far (physically and metaphorically) and unobtainable. Making the decision to head to the islands of evolution was the easiest decision. After all, I was in Ecuador already and it would be rude not to.

When the day finally came to head to my number 1 destination, waking up at 5.30am was still a struggle (little did I know that a few months later covid would mean I would be starting work at 4am!) Leaving plenty of time to get through the airport, including a little extra for any issues we might encounter, turned out to be unnecessary. I’d much rather wait around than be panicking about missing a flight though! If only I could deal with “normal” life this way, but alas, my bed is a fabulous place to be.

I’ve included all the pre-flight prep in my previous article here if you’re interested. Since the flight itself takes about 1 hour 35 minutes, it’s enough for a short nap while you’re cruising to the barren Isla Baltra. There’s really nothing to do on Baltra except get excited that you’ve touched down in the GALAPAGOS!

Puerto Ayora, the main base of land-based excursions

Incidentally, arriving at these protected islands was the first time I got wind of something called “covid”. I briefly scanned the banner explaining what it was whilst waiting for my temperature check, but the excitement of being on the islands meant that I didn’t pay much attention to this minor issue. This was not only the first, but also the last time I paid any attention to this minor blip in my journey. It wasn’t until I got back to the UK that the widespread and serious nature of it all hit.

To quickly summarise, after our bags were checked, you have to buy a bus ticket and catch the bus to a small port, where you’re ferried by boat across a small stretch of ocean to the main island: Isla Santa Cruz. A 45 minute – 1 hour bus or taxi ride transports you to the main town of Puerto Ayora, a small town that hosts the majority of land-based tourists during their stay.

The main street in Puerto Ayora, parallel to the ocean. It’s full of shops and places to eat.

Our first hostel was really nothing to shout about. Cockroaches, a dodgy shower that left me in fear of being electrocuted and a shared bathroom that didn’t lock… yeah, leave your options open so you don’t have to put up with things like that. I can rough it with the best of them, after a lifetime of camping adventures (plus I’d just come from the jungle, remember), but I do have my standards! For a dream destination, I would rather spend slightly more on accommodation, since this really does impact your trip.

Good accommodation can be found, whatever your budget, even for a budget traveller such as myself. I would say don’t skimp on your accommodation, since at the very least you want to know that you, and your bags are safe. You most likely won’t be spending a lot of time in your room (if you are, then you really need to look at your life and destination choices), but having a comfy, lockable room is worth the splurge.

Back to day 1 adventures then: lunch on the GALAPAGOS was a surreal, pinch-myself moment. Because come ON, it’s the bleeding GALAPAGOS! Honestly, the novelty of having been there will never wear off, even if it does for the people who’ve heard the stories a thousand times since. Live your life, don’t let anyone stop you and tell those tales again girl!

Trawling the Tours

As intrepid budget travellers, we were soon on the hunt for a decent tour that covered what we wanted, at a decent price. Easier said than done, since my haggling skills are non-existent, and coupled with my rapidly rising excitement levels, this was a concern for my friend.

I had done extensive amounts of research on how not to go completely broke while visiting the Galapagos, and had quickly settled on a land-based tour. Boat tours are expensive if you’re pre-booking. If you wait until you get there for last-minute boat tours, then there’s the risk they won’t fit your schedule or cover what you want. To really keep costs down, and the looming threat of sea sickness, I opted for island hopping, which loads of sites seem to not recommend. Why? Most likely because they’re trying to sell you the most expensive, all-the-bells-and-whistles tour. Bear that in mind, because a lot of sites you’ll trawl for research will be trying to sell you something.

As for me, a first time Galapagosian visitor, I did not feel our tour was lacking at all. It was a jam-packed action-fest that covered enough islands, wildlife and experiences to satiate my adventurous soul.

After wandering around the various, and numerous, tour agencies, we settled (well, I settled) on a trip that covered all the main islands, taking in a vast amount of wildlife and scenery. The cost? $710. Ouch.

So here’s the thing. I didn’t have enough cash for that. So I ended up doing the thing that EVERY SINGLE SITE I read beforehand told me not to do. Comb the island’s cash points for funds. Double ouch. Mucho oucho. It’s really not the thing you want to be doing on your holiday. You’re strictly limited as to how much you can get out at each machine, so it involved trekking between banks multiple times, feeling like a right gringo stupido, to get the right amount out. 110/10 do not recommend.

Eventually, I had mustered up enough funds, plus extra spending money to be able to pay the fee, trudging back after a hot and sweaty mission. The thing is, the Galapagos was the one destination I actually researched on my trip, but nowhere seemed to provide even a rough guesstimate of expenses and costs, not even a ballpark figure. I get that preferences and budgets change, but as a super-budget traveller, even an idea would have been useful.

I would say take out bare minimum $1,200, for things like food and souvenirs too. Accomodation you can pay beforehand on the apps, which is a handy thing for sure. I would even say, to be on the safe side, take $1,500 in cash.

Foraging and Fauna

Dinner cheered me right up, after my sweaty cash-point ordeal. I ordered a gorgeous medium-cooked tuna (seafood is a must when island living), mushrooms, potatoes, asparagus and ensalada (salad). The sweet Ecuadorean wine went down a treat too.

We reflected on the animals we saw on our first day, all of which were a novelty and endlessly exciting. Bright red crabs leapt confidently between surf in the shallows and climbed the walls of the marina. The amount and variety of fish was enticing and promised colourful snorkel trips to come. Marine iguanas are the ultimate in Galapagos natives, completely at home in both land and sea, completely unfazed by the gaping tourists, who no doubt have long ceased to be a novelty for them.

Yellow warblers, bright yellow and numerous in number greeted our arrival, as did the Darwin finches. These overlooked superstars are the reason the Galapagos is on the map for many people – they are the original instigators of Darwin’s theory of evolution. I was astonished to realise that every single person appeared to overlook these important birds. Yes, they look like ordinary finches, the type to be found the world over, but they are so important! Like a superstar whose looks and talent fade over time, the crowds are now drawn to the novelties of the showier creatures: the perpetually calm and collected nature of the sea turtles, the creaky tortoises rumbling along, the flashy fish, and show-off sea lions. Even the uncaring rockstars, the marine iguanas, draw excited gapes from new arrivals. The poor finches; spare a thought for the original superstars of the islands.

Solo Travelling Tips – Structuring Your Days

What I will mention at this point is that when you’re travelling for an extended length of time, particularly as a solo traveller, I find it’s a lot easier to breakdown each day into a series of tasks or “missions” to complete. It is very easy to become overwhelmed, and my natural response was to structure my day in an simple and easy way. I find that it’s a lot easier to look after myself, since there are some non-negotiable things that you need to do each day.

Number 1 is feeling safe when you sleep, so find a decent place to stay. Look at recent reviews to help you decide. You quickly pick up what you want from your base, and it differs between every traveller. If you’re solo, then don’t always opt for private rooms, as it’s surprisingly easy to feel lonely, even when you’re surrounded by people. If you’re in a hostel you have the luxury of choosing space and solitude or practicing your rusty language skills on the other travellers. Plus, the tips and tricks you’ll pick up, along with the stories you hear, are priceless.

Number 2 is to structure your day around your meals, since this provides the backbone of your day. Hunger and in particular, hanger, makes everything more difficult to cope with. I can deal with a lack of sleep, but a lack of food is just asking for trouble. Combine the 2 and the rest of you should be running for the hills rather than deal with me in that state!

When you’re in exploration mode, usually hunger comes on pretty quickly, so bearing in mind roughly when these times are is helpful. As a solo traveller, you won’t have to worry about compromising, and it’s so much easier to get the food you want, instead of trying to pick a compromise when 2+ people are hungry.

Well, that’s all for now. Next I’ll be focusing on the other islands I visited and what I got up to.

Until next time!

From me to you,

Jenni

🦋

Getting to the Galapagos

* Disclaimer: I visited the Galapagos before Covid restrictions, so new rules will likely apply. Please check your the relevant websites for more information prior to travelling *

The Galapagos Islands have been on my “must visit” list for as long as I can remember. The islands that David Attenborough introduced me to, and the birthplace of Darwin’s theory of evolution. Little did I expect that at the age of 24 I would be visiting the destination of my dreams! I had not even dared to imagine I would get there so soon, but when the chance to visit arose, I took the plunge and booked my flights.

The Galapagos Islands, if you didn’t grow up on wildlife documentaries and David Attenborough’s soothing narrations, are a group of islands (funnily enough) located off the west coast of Ecuador. They are Ecuadorean by nationality and tightly controlled, with entry only able from the Ecuadorean cities of Quito, in the north, and Guayaquil, in the south.

While it’s a nerve-wracking time ensuring you’re up to scratch and have prepared for all the strict controls and rules to actually enter, my time on the islands was the closest I’ve come to magical. It was also stressful, expensive and tiring (hence why I’m writing an article geared to help you budget-minded travellers), but hindsight is a wonderful thing, right?

In my opinion, if a trip can be all that and STILL come out tops with the “magical” label, then it’s a pretty darn special place.

Get Ready for Take Off

It cost me about half (yes HALF!!!) of my travelling budget for my 2-month odyssey around South America. Yes, I know. Ouch. But worth it? Exponentially.

I’ve split my time on the islands into a clear, chronological structure, so sign up if you want to discover what you can get up to here on a budget! In this article, learn about how to get yourself onto these islands of paradise in the first place.

Pre-Departure for the Galapagos

You must check the current entry requirements to the Galapagos Islands before you depart, and in plenty of time. Getting on to the islands is strictly controlled, for obvious reasons. Protecting the Galapagos is in everyone’s best interests and I recommend you fully research the up-to-date requirements, particularly post-covid.

There are many sites, including travel agencies, who post about the Galapagos, so ensure you check the most up-to-date websites, and don’t rely on just one site. You don’t actually need to sign up with an agency to travel to the Galapagos, and bear in mind that agencies might require extra documentation and checks.

Here are the things you definitely need to consider:

Visa – do you need a visa for travelling to Ecuador? For U.S., Canadian and most European citizens, visas are not required, unless you will be staying for more than 90 days.
Exit flight or bus from Ecuador – Before I even boarded my flight to Ecuador, I was asked at Heathrow for proof that I was leaving the country. You can always book a cheap or flexible bus ticket if you’re still uncertain of your timings. I had already booked an onwards flight to Peru… luckily!
Return flights from the Galapagos
Valid passport – valid for more than 3 months
The Galapagos Transit Control Card – you will need to fill this out online at least 24 hours before the flight
Immigration control – $20 to be paid at the airport. This is to control illegal immigration and register the number of tourists
Baggage check
No biological materials – this includes food. You can search for the specific rules, but there’s food there and the flight is short, so I wouldn’t bother carrying snacks. Cross-contamination between the Galapagos and the outside world, as well as between the islands themselves, is a big no-no
Health insurance – not compulsory, but I highly recommend getting yourself some. There is insurance out the for all budgets, and even as a solo traveller on a budget, I forked out the extra money to cover myself and my filming kit for the duration of my travels

As a word of advice, if you are able to try and visit the Galapagos Islands in the off-season, for less queues, less tourists on the islands themselves and more space. Contrary to all the articles extolling peak-season ticket purchasing, you’ll save yourself a lot of money, time and hassle by opting for a trip during the quieter times.

Arriving on the Isla Baltra

Isla Baltra is barren, and the first island you’ll experience on your trip, since the main aeropuerto is located here. Once you land on Baltra, after the normal passport checks, you’ll need to register to enter the Galapagos National Park and pay the park entry fee, which is cash only:

Foreigners: $100
Countries with a Mercosur agreement: $50
Nationals: $20

My friend is now an Ecuadorean citizen, so while I forked out a whole heft of my already rather paltry wealth, she smiled smugly as she handed over her $20.

The park entrance fee goes towards the preservation and protection of the islands, which is definitely worth the money in my opinion. The fee is split as follows:

40% Galapagos National Park
20% Galapagos Municipalities
10% Galapagos Province Government
10% Galapagos National Institute (INGALA)
5% Galapagos Marine Reserve
5% Galapagos Province Inspection and Quarantine System
5% INEFAN (National Park Service)
5% National Army

After making it through all the checks and registering, your bags will be subjected to the noses of the border control dogs. Watching from the sidelines is slightly surreal, as you and your plane load of people watch anxiously from the side lines.

After reclaiming your luggage in the ensuing stampede, you’ll be heading to the Los LOBITOS bus, after purchasing your $5 ticket. Make sure you queue for the ticket first before you queue for the bus (I learnt that the hard way!)

A journey of about 15 minutes introduces you to the scorching barrenness of Isla Baltra, an old military army base that boasts the airport, a scattering of building foundations and the odd marine iguana as its only attractions.

Your first taste of a sea voyage is a 10 minute ride across the Itabaca Canal between Isla Baltra and Isla Santa Cruz, which is 10 minutes and $2 each (in cash). This may induce a little anxiety about your bags, perched precariously on top of the boat, but the workers have done this a million times before. Stress less is my advice!

Our first Galapagos sea voyage! It lasted all of 10 minutes and the water was as blue as it looks

Upon arriving at the other side, you can opt for a taxi of $25, or the bus for a $5 40-60 minute journey to get to the main town of Puerto Ayora. The taxi will take you straight to your accommodation, and you can split the fee with however many people take the taxi with you.

The bus ends at a certain stop, so if it is your preferred choice make sure you take some screenshots of google maps and the outside of your hostel. Puerto Ayora is rather small, so if you’ve any sense of direction at all, it will be easy to find your accommodation.

My sense of direction is pretty spot on, so my friend and I found our hostel with ease and were soon exploring the tranquil streets of Puerto Ayora. Due to my travelling timeline, we had just missed peak season, so the town was quiet and relaxed – proper coastal small-town vibes. There’s never a bad time to visit the Galapagos Islands, so save yourself some money by heading over when the islands are quieter. You’ll get your pick of accomodation and activities, as well as a much more relaxing stay.

This is the first hostel we stayed in on the Galapagos: Hostal Puerto Ayora

Peak season for the Galapagos is December to January and June to August.

I’ll leave you to settle in now. Join me next time to discover what I got up to during my days on paradise, and for more tips on how to travel to the Galapagos on a budget!

From me to you,

Jenni

🌎

A Guest in Guayquil

Guayaquil was not the first big South American city I’d visited. Back in 2017 I had taken a day trip to Santiago during my time studying at Valparaiso’s Federico Santa Maria Technical University. I’m not that fussed by big cities if I’m honest. The noise, the people, the hustle and bustle don’t excite me. I thought they did once, which is why I moved to London for my undergrad degree. I gave it a good bash, but ultimately I’m so much happier now I’ve left that life behind.

Santiago, in a big group of foreigners (about 30 of us) was not the best introduction to South American cities. Of course we were a magnet for thieves and the group didn’t leave unscathed. The location, however, was marvellous sandwiched between the Andes mountains. Guayaquil, by contrast, rests just inland of the coast of Ecuador, with the Rio Guayas cutting through it.

For a city so close to the coast, and situated on the banks of a huge river, Guayaquil is stiflingly and surprisingly humid. I’d passed through very briefly to get from the airport to the bus station, unsurprisingly with other things on my mind.

This time around, I was going to be staying for longer. My original plan had been to pass through the city as quickly as possible. My research had cautioned me that it was a city best left to the locals. Incidentally, my uncle got in touch after following my travels and put me in contact with a friend of his who lived in Guayaquil. Happily enough, she offered my friend and I a place to stay before we headed off to the paradise of the Galapagos.

We stayed with the family at their spacious house in what I assume are the suburbs, a gated community along one of the main road arteries to the city. Since the humidity is off the scale, the air con was a welcome addition, as was the promise of an iguana hiding in the wardrobe of the room we were staying in. We never did catch a glimpse of him, which upset my inner David Attenborough.

My friend and I were whisked off on a brief tour of Guayaquil’s main attractions:

Malecon 2000 – a neat, spacious promenade alongside the vast river
La Perla – a ferris wheel that offers great views over the city. Not quite the London Eye, but I do love a bird’s eye view
La planchada fort – complete with cannons! Built to protect the first urban settlement of the city on the hill behind it and now a national monument
Numa Pompilio Llona the lowest street encircling a hill of colourful houses and winding streets. This road itself was lined with some amazing street art, but the steps up the hill were no joke. We didn’t make it to the top of the hill because the heat was too oppressive – the sweat was REAL and as for trying to breathe, forget it! We ultimately decided that we’d seen enough view from La Perla
Sweet & Coffee – essentially a Starbucks, I treated myself to a … and CAKE (my biggest weakness)!
The Point – a most fabulous twisty building next to where we parked the car. I’m a big fan of it

Upon returning to the house, my friend and I made our way to the local shop and made the most of the time to explore the compound in which the house was set. A weird experience, as despite being situated within a guarded compound, all the houses were fortified like prisons. Considering I hadn’t been to keen to spend my time here to begin with, I decided I was incredibly grateful to be hosted by a generous family, fluent in English as well as Spanish. Me gusta.

I had booked a morning flight to the Galapagos, acting along the lines of “the less time spent here the better”, before I discovered I would be fortunate enough to be hosted. The flight is just under 2 hours, at 1 hour 50, which is pretty inconsequential after the marathon flight it takes to get to South America in the first place.

Typing this up now reminds me of a fella (from Ireland I think) who was on the same plane from Colombia as me. We ended up talking because we were both dressed in highly-touristy colourful patterned baggy trousers. He was heading straight on to the Galapagos for a month’s placement, while I was headed to the deep interior of deepest darkest Ecuador. Chance encounters are a special thing when travelling. Connecting with strangers, who come and go in a moment, holds a special place in my wanderlust heart. I used to be awful at saying goodbye, so it gave me great pleasure to be able to easily let go of the friends I made. Some people aren’t meant to stay in your life for long, so enjoy the time you have with them before you both move on.

Getting to the Galapagos is a little different than heading off to other countries. It makes hopping on a plane to Peru seem easy by comparison. You have to have the right paperwork, permissions and baggage weight and that’s just the beginning!

Since the Galapagos was slap bang in the middle of my South American Odyssey (sounds much better than plain old “travelling”, right?) I had been trying to work out the cost of storing excess baggage (aka, a whole bag of mine) at the airport itself. It was that or depending on the kindness, and security, of whichever hotel I would book to stay in at Guayaquil.

As only spontaneity can afford, the gift of having a host meant I could leave whatever wasn’t needed at the house, safe and sound. What a relief that was! Not only did it mean that I could save a sizeable amount of money, I could rest easy, safe in the knowledge that my gear was perfectly safe.

I can’t wait to tell you about my time in the Galapagos! It’s one of my favourite places, and a part of the world I didn’t think I would visit for years to come! I still can’t quite believe I actually went there!

Until next time travellers,

From me to you,

Jenni

🦋

Amaru Bioparque

City of Cuenca, nestled between mountains with feathered grass in the foreground

The small amount of research I deigned to do before setting foot on the South American continent led me to jaguars. The Amaru Zoológico Bioparque was located tantalisingly close to the centre of Cuenca, yet far enough away in a tangle of highways to be an adventure in itself to reach. As it turned out, it was worth the effort.

Go With the Flow

It was during breakfast one morning that I met Thomas. Thomas was a German native, who had been travelling through South America for much longer than I had. He was an old hand at this stuff, and a solo traveller too. I was the new & shiny little puppy – goggle-eyed at everything – while he was the grizzled old dog, well accustomed to the style and pace of life in these here parts.

I mentioned that I was planning to go to the Amaru Bioparque the next day. I still hadn’t quite figured out how to get there yet, but I figured that was a minor detail, not worth sharing. As it happily turned out, Thomas was planning on going too! His friend, who was studying in the city (and who’s name now sadly evades me) was going to take him. A deal was struck and it was decided we would head there together.

This was actually a stroke of luck, since to get to the park is a little tricky. Hailing a taxi a couple of streets down from our hostel, we took the 15-or-so minute journey out towards the east of the city, where we were deposited unceremoniously at the bottom of a steep gravel track. A little inconsequential for a major attraction, but as I was to discover Ecuador, and indeed South America as a whole, doesn’t go in for the whole sanitised Disney-land-esque attractions. So long as it’s functional, it’s fine.

The Amaru Bioparque Proper

The park itself is a winding maze that covers a hillside. The only sense you have of direction is the steep slope of the hill itself, indicating the way back to the city. We ran about like excited little kids, pulled ever onwards and upwards around yet another twist, another turn. Quite the workout!

Every corner brought another surprise. I love animals and having the chance to enjoy being up close and personal, in an environment that prioritises the welfare and conservation of such wild beasts, was pure joy. I snapped happily away, an extension of my camera. As a photographer, this is to be expected, but I have a deep seated philosophy that I’d rather live in the moment

I saw, among other species:

Spider monkeys – one of my favourite animals ever, and free ranging in part of the park!
Andean Bear – just chilling
Frogs and snakes – just chilling too, but sinister-ly
Ocelot – pacing and growling at us in its aerial walkway
Pumas – growling… at each other
Capybara! – It’s insane to see them in real life. They really are just like big guinea pigs!
A cat – (probably not an exhibit animal) chasing a parrot (probably an exhibit animal)
Lions!!! – We heard them long before we saw them, these kings and queens of the savannah. The male was smaller in height than I had anticipated, but emphatically powerful in the build of his body and the depth of his roar. It’s a rather grating sound, so he probably wasn’t putting his all into it.
Ostrich! – Tall and long, I’m slightly wary of them. They seem highly strung. Maybe they get better as you get to know them…
Jaguars! – I desperately wanted to see these big cats and they did not disappoint

I have fond memories of my half day at Amaru. I loved that by visiting I was helping conservation efforts, whilst getting to see native (and not so native) animals.

“Amaru is a private, non-profit conservation organization created by Ecuador’s Ministry of Environment … in 2002”

We headed back down the hill just as it started raining, standing under a tree as we attempted to hail a passing taxi. We had lunch together in the downtown area, towards the river, opting for a shwarma joint. I ordered a té helado (iced tea), which was fast becoming my new favourite thing, after Cuenca itself, free-roaming spider monkeys and jaguars (not free-roaming, thankfully).

As is the way with new friends on long travels, the other two headed off as I ducked into a gallery across the road. I love art galleries. They’re much nicer to visit than stuffy museums that tend to overload you with information. Don’t get me wrong, I love history and museums, but there’s a time and a place. I’ll happily wander into all the galleries I come across, which I could do in Cuenca, since there are many! Plus there was no one to nag me to hurry up. This meant I got to head into ALL the galleries and random shops before I decided on which pair of beaded earrings to purchase. Ah the joys of solo travel!

It’s time we left Cuenca now (sad, I know) but next we’re headed to… the Galapagos!

From me to you, my fellow wanderers,

Jenni

A Walking Tour of Cuenca – A Journey of Self Discovery

I embraced the luxuries of the solo travelling lifestyle easily enough. I love to travel and take after my parents, who wander and wonder when on holiday. “Package holiday” is akin to a curse word in our house, eliciting shocked and horrified gasps and shaking of heads.

They have instilled a healthy sense of curiosity in me, simply because they have never lost theirs. A lifetime spent hiking has also given me a wondrous sense of direction, upon which I know I can rely.

Wandering off in a foreign city isn’t as scary as you would think. It’s all a matter of perspective. I didn’t, you see, just head off into the ether and hope for the best. I studied Google Maps, much handier and more portable than carrying paper maps of every place. BUT, technology has its limitations when it comes to Wi-Fi free zones abroad. Yes, you can buy local sim cards, but I never bothered. I like the unknown, I’ve come to feel it’s a familiar yet ever-exciting friend.

Fancy architecture, street art and mountains – Cuenca summed up in one image

Not knowing incites a childlike wonder, something I think far too many of us are lacking in our ordinary lives. For when one wanders, there’s no telling what will be found – perhaps, like me, you will stumble upon the artists’ quarter, or handicraft market quite by chance. There is nothing as satisfying as discovering these treasures by yourself, as opposed to making lists and lists of places to visit.

Of course, the lists have their place, but I prefer the simple pleasures of allowing myself to wander through life. For it’s not often we get the chance.

A collection of street art found during my exploration of Cuenca

Cuenca by Foot

During my time in Cuenca I took my first ever walking tour. Walking tours can be found the globe over and are usually free, operating on a tip basis for your guide. These guided tours allow for the solo traveller to happily snap away images, without having to worry about watching their back.

In Cuenca, I had booked myself onto the 11am tour, but truth be told was feeling a little miserable, borderline awful due to my bed bug bites. My entire arm was hurting, but since I am a Potter, I must travel and make the most of every single second. We are a notoriously curious bunch.

A view of Cuenca’s Cathedral from my favourite open air courtyard

The tour itself turned out to be the start of a love affair for walking tours (not a surprise if you know anything at all about me!). In my subsequent experience of walking tours, the guides are all locals and they really know their stuff.

As a solo traveller, keen on packing as much in and living as much life as possible, I don’t like to make my way round with a guidebook glued to my side. Walking tours are informative, giving you enough information to help you understand the place you’re visiting, without overloading you. It’s a great way to spend your time, though it’s up to you whether you dive in first or leave it until the last moment. Solo travelling means you get to decide what you do and how you do it.

Back to Cuenca now, and here is a short(ish) rundown of what went down:

The cathedral is definitely the stand-out of the city, but the architect clearly wasn’t up to the job as there is a huge crack down the middle when the central statue was put in – d’oh! Never fear though, because it wasn’t actually his fault, according to him. The heathens of the city did not believe in the lord and saviour Jesus Christ enough. The cathedral was never finished, it’s meant to have more towers and bells inside, and it holds the dubious accolade of being the only cathedral in Ecuador to be bell-less.

The cathedral in Cuenca is one of the best pieces of architecture to be found in the city – which is saying a lot!

Oh, and while you’re there, you might want to try looking for a capsule. A capsule with the hair of a pope inside, which said pope hid somewhere in the building. Avid worshippers have searched for years, but to no avail, so you’ve still got a chance to make history here!
One thing walking tours do, other than to provide information, is to let you experience exclusive little tid-bits of the place you’re visiting. After starting in the cathedral square, we headed over to the oldest pharmacy in the city and tried a fizzy strawberry drink, reputed to have cured many a Cuenconian’s hangover.
From there we headed over to see the interior of a gorgeous building which now houses a law firm. Much too gorgeous for the average ‘blood sucking lawyer’ (Jurassic Park quote, anyone?) though a great photo opportunity.

This rather spectacular gallery now houses a law firm

At the flower market we tasted a drink made from 50 herbs. The dark pink concoction wasn’t bad, but reminded me of medicine. The flowers from this very market are exported to Hollywood of all places, since Ecuador has the perfect growing conditions (my time in the jungle taught me that). There aren’t proper season on the equator, such as we are used to in the UK. It’s simply the wet season, or the dry season.

In the mercado 10, one of the big local markets, we saw the herbs used for medicines and tried jugo de coca (Coca Juice) which I have to say is incredible.

We headed out to the oldest part of town to end the tour, learning about the river as we went. It used to destroy all the city bridges, until a priest renamed it to its current name and it calmed down. It’s now the Rio Tomebamba, but I didn’t note down it’s old name. It’s not a fact that exists on Google either, which for me speaks to the value of these tours.
We also saw 1 of the 4 crosses that guard the old town, which legend says when people pass by, their bad energy dissipates. A wonderful myth by any means.

After the tour, accompanied by my friend Thomas, we devoured a local lunch in the mercado. We both ordered a native dish of corn, egg and cheese, with spring onions and a fried plantain. As a solo traveller, I cannot recommend embracing the local culture and food enough. The flavour was incredible and the price was only $2! Much cheaper than the tourist-trap places.

In a strange turn of events, considering I was sitting in the middle of an Ecuadorean city in the other side of world from my home, we ended up talking about Brexit. A dark shadow that still looms over my country, it was due to be instigated the next day. This was of course, before the endless delays that came with negotiating a new deal for us Brits. I’m not particularly happy with the outcome of that vote, but we shall see what the future brings.

After Thomas headed back to the hostel, I aimed my intrepid feet to the Yaw Ecuadorean café for a drink, having set my sights on it earlier in the day. There’s nothing like a Nutella frappe sipped in a strange city, in a strange country and thinking about my burgeoning travel adventures. Turns out even the most foreign of places isn’t all that strange when you get used to their rhythms.

A last look at Cuenca and it’s fascinating streets – it’s a great place for solo travellers!

Next time, hear about my trip to the Amaru Bioparque, which was the main reason I really wanted to spend time in Cuenca – to see the jaguars!

Let me know below if you’ve ever been on a walking tour and where you went. If you haven’t tried one, let me know whether you’d consider taking one now and where you want to go!

Until next time,

From me to you,

Jenni

🦋

Cuenca Cheat Sheet – Day to Day Living in Ecuador

It seems that I just can’t let go of my solo adventure around Cuenca! There’s still a few more things I want to share before we move on. As a solo female traveller, I have to say I felt very safe and able to explore in this gorgeous Andean city. Let me give you a few fun facts to get us started…

Cuenca is (rightfully!) a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a mountain city nestled amongst the peaks of the Andes in southern Ecuador. It is the capital of the Azuay Province and from the UK it takes about 24 hours of continuous travel to get here.

Quite a feat, though well worth a little discomfort en route. It’s central old town is populated by a lot of American expats, so the locals can speak English (they just choose not to!) This was no for me problem, since I had to initiate myself into 24/7 Spanish-ness!

The US dollar is the currency of Ecuador, a monetary system that I’m not used to. Trying to translate prices to GBP in my head proved tricky to start with, but as with anything, the more you practice the easier it gets.

My short time in the jungle required little to no dollar knowledge whatsoever, sequestered away in the jungle as I was. My time fending for myself in Cuenca, and subsequently in Guayaquil meant that I could really appreciate just how expensive the Galapagos actually is.

During my time in Cuenca, I stayed loyally to the cobbled downtown area, where it’s prettiest and where the vast majority of tourists and travellers stay.

Just your average downtown building in Cuenca

The Tomebamba river cuts through the city, and I found myself drawn to the raging waters time and again, treading the riverside path, past exotic flowers. It’s crazy to think that the locals would call these flora species common. Marvelling at the street art, I wove my way down to the broken bridge of Puente Roto and up to the artists quarter, with its numerous galleries.

While on the surface, Cuenca looks to have changed little over the past hundreds of years, the trams and mod-cons soon put paid to that notion. Compared with the sleek and slick façade of the UK towns and cities, driven by an insatiable need for quick and easy commerce, South America in general is slightly less sleek. It’s predictable once you get the hang of it, and the drive of commerce is still there, but it seems nittier, grittier and a lot less polished.

It makes the UK, and other spotless European towns seem caricaturish. Places seem a little… not rundown per se, since the people take pride in their places, but just… grittier. There’s more of a make-do attitude. People can live without here – the backwater towns and bus routes show just how poor a lot of the country really is.

Since I don’t think I’ve mentioned it yet, I will let you know that my route down the western side of South America meant I was 5 hours behind UK Greenwich meantime. From mid-afternoon I was cut off from those still based in my native England, lending a true sense of wildness and adventure. It was during these times, along with my Wi-Fi free wanderings and bus trips onwards, that made me really feel alone.

Not alone as in lonely, quite the opposite. I loved the freedom of it, the sense of independence I felt. If solo travelling has taught me anything, it’s shown me just how capable I am.

The Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception lit up at night with an open courtyard in the foreground. — A favourite haunt of mine that turned out to be populated by other travellers and tourists. It’s easy to see why in this image (taken on my phone, hence the questionable quality!)

Anicha Hostel – My Home Away From Home

I mentioned a few posts back that I stayed in Anicha Hostel, which is situated on a busy street close to the main square and the Catholic Catedral de la Inmaculada. You are never far from some fantastic colonial architecture in the historic downtown area. Even leaning out the window of my dorm room was a view of a glistening white church. A reminder, perhaps, of some brutal conquistador past. It looks familiar to a pair of western eyes, but look closer and you’ll see that it’s not.

Anicha Hostel was stunning in its artistry, its interior reflecting the eclectic mix of street art to be found outside. I loved the bohemian vibe and enjoyed my breakfasts by observing the other travellers there – the quiet pairs, the larger groups and more open travellers. I tried to present myself as an old hand at travelling, which I guess I am, though as a solo traveller I was barely initiated at that point!

Breakfast was provided, a simple affair of eggs or porridge, bread and fruit, with coffee and tea also available. The hostel has a strict vegetarian policy. which was no problem for me, as I didn’t make use of the cooking facilities there and I can live without meat.

I always made sure my hostels, or the rare hotel I treated myself to, provided free Wi-Fi. Perhaps that’s not as important to you, but being able to watch Netflix was a necessary luxury at times! That and being able to use google and download maps before I ventured out into the unknown.

Cuenca Cuisine – A Foodie’s Paradise

Cuenca has an undeniable food culture. During my stay, I barely touched traditional South American cuisine, so prevalent where the options. During my first stay I opted for a favourite of mine – Pad Thai and a pineapple juice drink (before discovering that I’m allergic to the fresh pineapple of the continent).

I feasted on lasagne, more Thai food, empanadas (the South American or Spanish equivalent of the UK sandwich. By my estimations, the empanada is far superior). Burgers were eaten, as was pizza. You can see below a small selection of the variety of treats on offer to me.

I can’t wait to return to Cuenca. Everything from the place, the people, the food and the incredible history enveloped me in the thrills and simple joy of discovering an alien place for the first time. I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to recapture the uncertainty of my time as a first-time solo traveller there, nor will I be able to revisit the surprise of how easy it is to adventure alone. You are never truly alone and solo travelling is far more prevalent than you might think.

Take the plunge and do it. You will be forever grateful to yourself that you did.

Join me next time to hear about my first ever walking tour of the city, and discover some of it’s history for yourself!

From me to you,

Jenni

🦋

Colonial Cuenca – The Basin of Ecuador

Ah Cuenca! I adore Cuenca and wish to return one day. It was here that I truly had a chance to embrace the life of the solo traveller. It wasn’t all fun and games, as you’ll find out soon enough, but so affected was I by this gorgeous colonial city that I was well set-up for enjoying my subsequent solo travels around South America.

I stayed in Cuenca for just over a week and view this time as a true initiation into a solo travelling lifestyle. It may have been all of under 5 days, but I remember my time in Cuenca as though I was there much longer. Staying in one place for that amount of time helps you to feel you know a place better. It’s not always possible of course, but I would recommend an extended stay in your first location to ease you into the ways of the world you’re in.

Cuenca (fun fact: it means basin) is hands down one of the prettiest places I stayed in during all of my travels. It’s up there with Cusco and Arequipa in Peru (though I didn’t connect nearly as deeply with Arequipa, for various reasons I’ll get into in a later post.)

If you’ve read my previous posts, you’ll know that I spent the night in Cuenca on my way to Terra Frutis, the raw vegan community I visited as filmmaker for the Amazon Fruit Festival 2020. I loved this city from the get-go and swore to come back and stay for longer than I had planned.

If I’m honest, I hadn’t planned for anything at all after the festival, other than booking flights to the Galapagos and Peru. I knew how to get to Terra Frutis and I had prepared to film the event, but after that… well, that was anyone’s guess, least of all mine! And that, as it turns out, is just how I like my travelling – the freedom to be truly spontaneous.

Cuenca is packed full of colourful street art – how can you not fall in love with this bohemian city?

A Cracking Time in Cuenca

Cuenca is a Spanish colonial city nestled amongst the high sierra of the Andes. Which really, is a beautifully poetic rendering of a gorgeously rendered city. I presume that it’s named after the Spanish city of Cuenca, which is also impossibly gorgeous and on my list of future travels. Google it. Who’s coming with?

The old city centre where I stayed during my visit is listed as a World Heritage site, (as is its Spanish namesake) and it’s truly easy to see why. Laid out in the colonial grid-style, the old centre, now the tourist hub, is peppered with well-preserved buildings that speak to its heyday of years past.

Colonial buildings are a common site in the downtown area

My week in Cuenca was truly spectacular, though it did not come without its fair share of misfortunes (more on those later). The main reason I returned to Cuenca was because I really wanted to see the Amaru Zoológico Bioparque, a non-profit conservation organisation. As a keen conservationist-in-the-making I was drawn to the park because of its focus on protecting biodiversity. Also, I wanted to see the jaguars.

I spent much of the time within the confines of the centre, trawling the streets, seeing the sights. Most of my time was spent searching for a hard drive and adaptor, one of the lingering and frustrating problems I dealt with while there. Yet even that couldn’t stop me from soaking up the beauty. If anything, it made me realise how lovely all the people were there… especially when they anticipated a sale!

The first friend I managed to make… completely in Spanish! We bonded over her gorgeous beading and my tiny GoPro, which she couldn’t believe was actually a working camera!

My week here flew by. I found that the days were long, but the weeks seemed to sail past, a phenomenon that seems to happen during holidays. It is also afflicting me in my normal, hum-drum everyday lockdowned life at the moment though. Le sigh.

Exploring is what I love to do most (why would I be on the South American continent otherwise?), with day 1 seeing me head out on Mission Hard Drive, resulting in 1 purchased adaptor and 1 purchased hard drive (with a discount, because the lady took pity on my technical Spanish vocab (pretty non-existent) and how hard I had been trying to get an adaptor!) Result: iPads are not compatible with hard drives… at all! However, I did not manage to figure this out until a quest round Guayaquil armed with limited Spanish. Le big sigh.

After this episode had concluded, I headed off, with GoPro in tow, to explore further afield. I discover the Puente Roto (which I tried to find last time, but ran out of time because I had a bus to catch) the artists quarter and the street of BOOKS! Anyone who knows me will know that I LOVE my jewellery (rings, bracelets and in particular BIG earrings), and my books. I found an English bookstore, but sadly buying books was off the agenda, because they are heavy and cumbersome things. My kindle would serve me on my travels well enough!

So many books! Yet so little motivation to carry them around for the next 2 months…

As for the jewellery… I popped into every boutique because, hey that’s just me. Except this time there was no one nagging me to hurry up because they were bored! Cuenca is well known for it’s crafts, and there are multiple places to meander and admire the handiwork.

And speaking of handicrafts, here’s a fun fact for you: the famous Panama hat actually originates in Ecuador, NOT Panama. Why are they called Panama hats I hear you wondering? Because they were exported from Ecuador to Panama during the 19^th century, during the building of the Panama Canal (which is actually located in Panama FYI). Cuenca is one of the hotspots for these bad boys, though unfortunately I look awful in hats and thus did not purchase one for my travels.

A further note on handicrafts is that I recommend you DO NOT buy anything with feathers. It’s illegal to take them back to some countries (UK included). I totally agree with this sentiment – feathers from rare birds have no place in jewellery, only perhaps in traditional costume. At the time, this was not something I realised, I saw only pretty feathers, but lots of hassle transporting them in a backpack for months! Rare birds may have been killed for their feathers and I for one want no part of buying into this. I’m sure you agree.

The intricate beaded earrings were a highly approved Jenni-purchase though. I browsed all the shops and markets and ended up going back to a specific boutique that was completely out of my way, because I liked their products best. Another great thing about solo travelling – going back to places with no moaning companion! I bought a green beaded pair, which you’ll probably see me wearing one of these days.

An Unfortunate Series of Events – Bedbugs and Bites

I did have an unfortunate time here as my bed was afflicted with bedbugs! An unfortunate hazard of travelling, yet one that seems to afflict me more than others. My first dealing with this unpleasant species, on holiday in Lisbon with my brother, proved that I am sadly highly allergic to these awful bugs. The patches where I had been bitten swelled up alarmingly and painfully.

The bedbugs in Ecuador were significantly worse. The majority of the bites were on my back, with a few choice nibbles sprinkled over my face. These bites swelled up hugely, causing my entire left arm to be painful, with a deep interior pain that affected my entire mood, making me lethargic and emotional.

The quality of this photo isn’t great, but you get the idea of the painful bedbug bites I was dealing with here.

This episode wasn’t great, I’ll be honest. Dealing with it was difficult, but the guy at the hostel who helped me out was great. We found and squished the parasite and moved me to another room once we’d checked my bags. Thomas, a friend I made who was over from Germany, helped me explain my problem to a pharmacist, for which they gave me some over-the-counter tablets to help.

Looking back, I remember it being awful, but writing about Cuenca, it actually took me a while to remember this happened at all! Looking on the bright side, this episode made me realise that I was able to adapt and overcome. (On a final note, people can go their whole lives without experiencing bedbugs, like Thomas, who’d been travelling for a year. My ‘sugar-blood’ means I’m more prone to biting insect attacks and it’s something I’ve learned to live with… and prevent wherever possible!)

The plus side of this episode was that I managed to figure out the laundry situation for travellers. In the main tourist cities of South America, a laundry service is all inclusive – they wash and tumble dry your clothes for you. I had all the jungle washed from my clothes, and they smelt so lovely afterwards!

I’ll leave you for now, and will be back soon with a new post!

From me to you,

Jenni

🦋

The Ultimate Free Travel Playlists for 2020

Yes I know what you’re thinking – travel is a luxury we can’t afford right now, aren’t actually permitted to do and yet something we’re all craving.

Well fear not! These locked-down, quarantiney times are made all the better with a decent playlist. Read on to discover what I’m listening to, and I’ll be sharing my curated Spotify playlists with you for your listening pleasure.

Albums

For me, memories of summer holidays include long (long) car trips south, sun, heat and music. I have a nasty habit of getting carsick, should I attempt to do anything other than look out the window, so music has become a great remedy, and a reminder of those long, lazy holidays in foreign climes.

And by long and lazy… I mean short and downright crazy. A Potter family holiday is akin to a jam-packed 2-week bootcamp session, adventure trip and extreme sports amalgamated experience. On every single one of my summer holidays, my entire family all managed to lose weight, in spite of all the eating (and later on, the drinking) we did!

Why are we so crazy? Who knows, but I’ve packed a lot of experiences into my life. And these crazy trips and treks have clearly rubbed off because my solo-travelling-self still packs all the craziest things possible into the shortest amount of time.

Anyway, I digress …

Music charts the course of my travels. From the age of the iPod (which I low-key miss), to the phone-based apps of the present, I have specific albums that unlock memories for me. I love that they have the power to transport me back to very clear moments or montages of trips I’ve taken: they chart my evolution growing up. Here are a select few…

Miley Cyrus – Can’t Be Tamed – Germany

MAGIC! – Don’t Kill The Magic – France

Selena Gomez – Rare – South America 2020

Minke – The Tearoom – Bath 2019 (Although it has me reminiscing about my London years, oddly enough)

Bryan Adams – Spirit: Stallion of the Cimarron – I come back to this album again and again. It’s a great piece of art and cinema music by Bryan himself and Hans Zimmer.

Current Go-To Albums

Wild Silence (Deluxe Edition) The Wandering Hearts

This album by an English country band encompasses so many different emotions, and the vocals are just incredible. The title song Wild Silence is just so uplifting. I love bands that call to mind ancient times and wild places, and this album manages to do just that. Heartbreak Hotel and Iona are my other top picks, but I can listen to this album all the way through, which is rare for me to do.

Ceinture Noire (Décennie) – Maitre Gims

This album covers such a range of musical genres and feelings. I have a passion for world music and this French album, with some Spanish collabs really hits the spot.

Spotify Playlists

These playlists are ones that I have constantly been adding to. Some are archived now, and some I’m still adding to. Take a look…

Latin Playlist:

I am a salsa convert through and through. The basis of my freestyle dancing is salsa and reggaeton, no matter the music! I’ve compiled this list of Latin tracks over a fair number of years. At this point I tend to start playing towards the bottom or pick and choose songs. Favourite song on the list? Dame Tu Amor. I listen to the tempo, rhythm and melody and I love how this makes me feel.

The Yearly Playlists

These encompass a general theme of how I hope the year will be. There will always be ups and downs, but I generally aim for optimism and hope for better days.

New Life, New Me

I think I started this at the beginning of 2019. I had just moved to Bath and was a few months into my job as a waitress at a gorgeous little independent café there. This was after a year of moving about for a lot of different jobs and I was looking forward to staying put for a while!

2020 Let’s Get Real

I began my South American travels on the 13^th January 2020, back when I had sky high hopes for this year (and still do!). Now that everything has changed, I’m still working towards my goals, though with a healthy dose of procrastination and sunbathing thrown in!

Running

As you may have guessed, this is my workout/active/dance party playlist. I listen to this one the most and am constantly refining it – removing songs, instead of just adding to it like my other playlists. This is a great one to get your groove on to!

Favourite song: Little Mix – Woman Like Me (Banx & Ranx Remix). Yes in aaalll the ways.

Songs of a Moment

I tend to get hooked on a specific song at times, which afterwards sadly doesn’t hold the same magic or fabulousness for me. I find this mimics life, as we’re forever evolving and moving forwards. I love how particular music, an album or a song, holds key memories for me. Previous love affairs have included:

Can’t Be Tamed – Miley Cyrus (The song, not the album in this instance)

No Way No – MAGIC!

Love You Like a Love Song, Revival & Rare – Selena Gomez

Wild Silence – The Wandering Hearts

Miami Vice – Maitre Gims

Another Me & Maybe 25 – Minke

Artists You Should Try

Spanish

The tempo of the times; so many songs have a Spanish-vibe to them these days. Shakira and the others were clearly onto something as cross-over artists!

Greeicy – I discovered her through her song ‘Aguardiente’, which became a top-notch banger for South America. A total mood, she sings about not wanting a boyfriend at present, which was a total life-goal before lockdown!

French

Christine & the Queens – A whole vibe. Yes.

Lili Poe – Specifically, Amours Fragile, Echo and Homme Ami

Madame Monsieur – a new discovery for me, I will definitely be listening to more.

Maitre Gims – Love him. Look him up – you won’t be sorry.

Albania

Elvana Gjata – Albanian pop. I’m loving Fustani, a true strut-worthy song.

Swedish

Anna of the North (sings in English, chilled, laid-back vibe)

LEON – Girl next door vibes

American

Ava Max – Of Albanian heritage, she’s relatively recently broken through with her 2018 bop Sweet But Psycho. I love what she’s done since then – she takes accepting and loving yourself to the next level, being cited as the new Gaga by some.

Amara La Negra – My friend introduced me to her music and it’s right up my alley

HAIM – These ladies are huge now, but I’ll always love their early work.

Welshly Arms – Indie rock band. I’ve been with them since their beginnings and it’s been great to have supported them from their first tiny gig in London. You may have heard of their songs Legendary and Bad Blood, and their albums are just as epic! They also hold the title of ‘Best Live Band I’ve Ever Seen’!

X Ambassadors – A long time love affair for me. I was there with them from the start. It’s great to watch a band evolve and gain traction! Try these bangers: Love Songs, Drugs Songs; Renegades; Gorgeous; Low Life (with Jamie N Commons), HEY CHILD, QUICKSAND and HOLD YOU DOWN. These guys are incredible to watch live too; their songs are made to be performed.

English

Freyja Ridings. I want her voice. Ultraviolet has the biggest yes from me.

George Ogilvie – Foreign Hands is beautiful. Look for the 2016 version on Youtube.

Ward Thomas – a country-pop duo composed of twin sisters.

Mabel – A London born-and-bred icon. YASSS.

Chris de Burgh – A different vibe from the rest of my choices, and an older one at that. He tells stories in a lot of his songs, which is great for daydreaming. Definitely give him a go – albums of choice include: Into the Light, Man on the Line and The Getaway. Try Spanish Train for a flavour of his style.

Jessie Ware – Forever in love with her sassiness and eerily beautiful music. Tough Love is a consistent fave that takes me back to post-uni London.

Minke – An up & coming QUEEN. Reminds me of living in Bath.

I hope you enjoy these playlists as much as I do.

I love discovering new music – if you have any recommendations then please let me know!

From me to you,

Jenni

👣

P.S. For the full playlists, and to stay updated, give me a follow. I’d love to know you’re enjoying these playlists!

Gualaquiza Bound – Freedom Calling

Welcome back everybody! Our time living in the Amazon rainforest has come to an end, and it’s high time this jungle dweller made her way back to civilisation.

A jungle dwelling fruity staff member, here I am carrying my camera bag with the rain cover on since it probably just finished raining!

At the end of my second week in the jungle, a week spent grappling with major raging technical issues and not getting anything useful done, I decided enough was enough. I upped sticks and left for Babylon. With a taxi called to catch the 12pm bus, I waited around, but it did not come. So, another taxi came instead and took me back to habitation: Gualaquiza. From there I would catch a bus back over the Andes to Cuenca.

My bags – the one marked ‘Fragile’ is my film kit bag, the bag closest to the camera is my carry on/bus bag, which I kept all my electronics, cables and camera kit in, and the one on the right is my big bag of STUFF, i.e. everything I need for travelling, like clothes.

I meant to catch the 12pm bus because the four hour journey would mean getting to Cuenca around 4pm, when it would still be light. Daylight hours are from about 6am to 7pm on the equator, even though I just assumed the days would be long and sunny with the sun setting late. I got into Gualaquiza bus station just as the 12pm bus was leaving, meaning I had time to spare until the next one.

Gualaquiza bus station is, especially in comparison to the Guayaquil one, a tiny building. I bought my ticket from the 16 Agosto ticket office, they took my passport number, etc, etc. With time to kill and it being lunchtime, I headed for the nearest restaurant I could get to, bags and all. With the town being rural in the extreme, I was the only foreigner, but considering that both Terra Frutis and the Fruit Haven properties are close by, they’re used to random white people showing up.

It was time to break out into my rusty Spanish after 2 weeks of English, and I did well. I ordered something (luckily there were pictures) and was rewarded with my first true taste of South American cuisine – meat, meat, rice and chips. A pretty standard dish as I was to discover on my subsequent meanderings.

Lots of food! Not a fan of tomatoes, but the lettuce was a nice addition to the stodge. Featuring mystery meat, a dodgy looking sausage, rice, chips and fried plantain pieces.

Serving both chips and rice seems a little heavy and over-doing it from a western cuisine perspective, but far from being some odd backwater town thing, I found this to actually be the norm. I’m more a fan of good old chips, so tended to scoff those and leave most of the rice, as it’s quite stodgy and filling eating a plate of carbs!

Meat is a staple of any dish down here, and after my time eating clean and simple foods, I was slightly concerned about how I would cope on my 4-hour bus ride to come. This was quickly taken over with both hunger and excitement at wolfing down some ‘proper’ food. I was fine, as it turned out.

I can still remember this meal incredibly clearly due to my sheer excitement at having a meal I was used to! Turns out my upbringing and genes are not compatible to a raw vegan, mostly fruitarian diet. I have a lot of respect for people who do follow this lifestyle, but as I’ve made clear, it’s not for me.

My travelling situation most of the time. Luckily I’m used to long journeys with little space!

For now, let’s fast forward to Cuenca. The bus rides, while interesting and offering the opportunity to truly see more of a country and how the people live, are notable for not being overly life changing. HOWEVER, I speak too soon! For now I was back in the sphere of Bad Bus Movies (remember those?) This ride delivered a very disconcerting film about a woman who is kidnapped and forced into the servitude of a murderous gang, who take pleasure and have no qualms in using and dispatching women.

Well I would like you to remember that I was travelling by myself and getting into Cuenca in the dark, so this probably stands out as the worst of my Bad Bus Movie experiences. This was one of only two times on my entire trip when I felt truly anxious and concerned, this due solely to the choice of movie.

Cuenca, as rationalised to myself and expected, was fine. I was getting into the swing of things – if you don’t act confident and in control, then you’ll never get a taxi – and was soon at the hostel I’d opted to stay in for the week. While I had loved my other hostel, breakfast hadn’t been included (despite it being claimed) due to the kitchen being renovated, i.e. non-existent.

This time, I opted for a rather funky looking abode, with paintings on the walls and breakfast included. One tip I will give you for travelling solo is to always be prepared. Whenever I was going somewhere, particularly in a taxi, I knew exactly where I was going, which direction, and memorised the route. For me, this isn’t hard since I have a great sense of direction, cultivated through years of trudging through the wilderness after my parents and wanting to know exactly where the car was and when the torture would end. Little did I know that this sense of adventure and trekking for decades would rub off on me…

The taxi driver hadn’t heard of the hostel before, which was odd, since it turned out to be rather popular. Neither did his operator, who he actually called to ask for help. Since I had screenshotted the route and where the hostel was, we managed to get there together. As hostels are usually harder to find than fancy signposted hotels, it took us some time to find the right door. What I will stress, is that people here want to help, and are generally really lovely, especially those who work in the service industries or who want to sell you something. South American hospitality generally goes beyond this though, as there is a deep sense of national pride still to be found here, as there was in all the places I visited.

Taking a taxi alone is perhaps best avoided, but inescapable at times if you’re travelling alone. The trick is to be prepared, in case of an innocent mishap like above, and be on your guard. If something doesn’t feel right, play it safe. I never had any incidents, with taxis or otherwise, as I always took official taxis, got my accommodation to call me one or used uber.

Back at my hostel though, the first person I bumped into was Dinamene, the nurse and one of the massage therapists at the festival! It was lovely to see a friendly face, and a Spanish-speaking one at that! I was tired, definitely not a Spanish speaker (at this point) and ready for food!

After being given the grand tour and shown to my bed, I headed back out, under direction of google maps, to a nearby pizza place. I just wanted a bite to eat and didn’t fancy wandering the streets at night, so I managed to just about order a massive slice of pizza and a coke, before I headed back to the land of nod.

Conclusion

It seems like an age since I was in the rainforest, grappling with both my ongoing technical issues (still am!) and fighting with my fruit. The feelings I felt so strongly there (tiredness comes to mind!) have faded now, what with this crazy new temporary world we’re living in. Were those 2 weeks hard? Yes. Would I change any of it? No. I’ve learnt a lot and I feel as though I’ve lived hard! It’s the perfect introduction to how I want to live my life from now on – on the wild side!

It might seem incomprehensible that a mere 2 weeks has made such an impact on me. At the moment, these weeks pass quickly and blur into one, shocking me at how quickly they come round again! In my experience, I’ve had more defining moments in 1 to 2 week time frames than I can sum up here.

From learning Spanish in Chile, which kick-started my love affair with South American continent, to the manic 2 weeks before it trying to raise funds for while I was out there, and from my insane 1 week of filming my graduate film, to all those family holidays in the summer, a lot can happen in 2 weeks. And a lot can be done, should you choose to use your time wisely.

Of course, that’s not forsaking the long boring bits in between, of the year or so I spent saving and grinding out to get this trip off the ground. It’s all worth it in the long run, even if it’s only for 2 weeks!

Next time, I’ll be exploring my beloved Cuenca and discovering just how much I’m going to enjoy my solo travels.

P.S. Let me know if you’d like to see my original travel diary for further reading, and I’ll curate it and post it up! It’s a lot more in depth and really gives a taste of the ups and downs I experienced.

Until next time!

From me to you,

Jenni

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